How to visit Penang Hill, the 821-metre colonial retreat above George Town
Penang Hill, known locally as Bukit Bendera, sits 821 metres above George Town and runs roughly five to ten degrees Celsius cooler than the sweltering city below. The British started developing it as a colonial hill retreat in the late 1700s, building bungalows you can still see today. Getting up there was once an ordeal that required a horse or a sedan chair. The first funicular railway opened in the 1900s, the second in 1924, and the current train, fully upgraded in 2011, holds the regional record as the fastest, longest, and steepest funicular in service.
The funicular
The Penang Hill Lower Station at Ayer Itam is the starting point. Ticket counters open at 6:15am, and the funicular runs from 6:30am to 11pm daily, with the last departure up at 9:45pm and the last departure down at 11pm. The ride takes 10 to 15 minutes.
Foreigners pay RM 30 for a two-way adult ticket, RM 15 for a one-way. A Fast Lane ticket costs RM 80 two-way for adults if you want to skip what can be a two-hour wait on a busy weekend. Buy online to save time, or at the counter if you prefer.
What to do at the top
The Sky Walk and Sky Deck offer 180-degree panoramic views of George Town, the Strait of Malacca, and on a clear day, the mountains of mainland Malaysia. Admission is free. Coin-operated binoculars and landmark signs help you orient yourself. Arrive early if you want to avoid the crowd that gathers at the two lookout points (Skydeck East and Skydeck West) from late afternoon onward.
Sunrise is the quietest time. Arrive on the first funicular and you will have the hill to yourself, with plenty of time for photos before the tour buses arrive. Sunset is the popular time, but staying too long risks missing the last train down at 11pm.
The Habitat nature trail
The Habitat is a guided nature walk through the rainforest canopy, featuring the Curtis Crest Treetop Walk and the Langur Way Canopy Bridge. This is where you spot flora and fauna that does not survive at lower, warmer altitudes. Look for pitcher plants (monkey cups) at the Monkey Cup Garden, which houses over 100 varieties and costs RM 12 per person to enter.
Wildlife sightings are best around midday. Silver leaf monkeys, dusky leaf monkeys, giant black squirrels, and greater racket-tailed drongos all live on the hill. We saw all four on a single weekday afternoon without even trying, just by looking up at the trees.
Where to eat
David Brown's Restaurant and Tea Terraces is an English tea house with a garden and outdoor terrace. It has been on the hill for many years, and it is a marvellous spot for afternoon tea or a romantic dinner. Open 12pm to 10pm most days, closing at 8pm on Wednesdays. Call +604-828 8337.
Cliff Cafe (Astaka Bukit Bendera) is the local alternative: a multi-storey open-air pavilion with hawker stalls. The lower level has drinks and desserts, the second level has local and Western food. Self-collect basis, no table service. Look for Lily Penang Hill Ice Kacang, which uses fresh fruit and fresh juice instead of artificial syrup, with portions large enough for four people to share.
Kopi Hutan, inside the Monkey Cup Garden, sits at ground level on stools under large ferns. Photogenic, though the beverages and cakes are nothing to rave about. Open 9am to 5:30pm daily.
How to get there
Take a Grab or taxi to the Penang Hill Lower Station at Ayer Itam. Use code GRAB2PGHILL for RM 5 off. If driving, the multi-story car park across from the station is often full on weekends. Rapid Bus 204 runs from the Jetty and Komtar in George Town, taking 40 to 60 minutes. The Hop-On-Hop-Off City Route shuttle stops at Chowrasta (Stop 05) and runs hourly to the hill.
Without a Fast Lane ticket, you might wait up to two hours for the train on a busy day. Go early, go on a weekday, and check the weather forecast. The views disappear entirely when the cloud rolls in, and the hill gets its rain for a reason.
