The tangy, fish-based noodle soup that beat out dishes from across the globe
Penang assam laksa is not the curry laksa you find elsewhere in Malaysia. There is no coconut milk in the broth. Instead, the base is mackerel (usually ikan kembung, or chub mackerel) simmered with tamarind, lemongrass, galangal, torch ginger flower (bunga kantan), and a sharp hit of chilli. The result is sour, spicy, fishy, and bright, served over thick round rice noodles and finished with shredded cucumber, pineapple, raw onion, mint, and a spoonful of heh ko, a thick, sweet prawn paste that ties everything together.
In 2011, CNN ranked assam laksa among the world's 50 most delicious foods, and in 2023, the Michelin Guide made it a cause celebre by elevating several Penang stalls to recommended status. A bowl costs between RM 5 and RM 8, making it one of the cheapest dishes you can chase in Penang.
Pasar Air Itam Laksa
If you like your assam laksa strongly flavored, this is the stall. It has been running for over 65 years, tucked into the market at the base of Kek Lok Si temple in Air Itam. Queues form daily, and the stall currently opens only three weekends per month, so check their Facebook page before making the trip.
The star ingredient here is the heh ko, the thick sweetish prawn paste that sits on top. The broth carries pineapple, turmeric, slices of mackerel, mint, lettuce, cucumber, onions, and ginger. Pair it with the temple visit in the same morning.
Address: Pasar Air Itam, 11500 Ayer Itam, Penang
Hours: 3 weekends per month, roughly 10am to 5pm. Check Facebook for current schedule.
Penang Road Famous Laksa
You will find this stall on Lebuh Keng Kwee, selling laksa alongside their equally famous cendol. The former location at Joo Hooi Coffee Shop held the stall for decades before the move. The broth here runs milder than Air Itam's version, which makes it the best starting point for first-timers who are not yet sure how much fish flavor they can handle.
The mackerel and sardine slices are generous. Expect to queue, and expect the wait to be worth it for the cendol alone.
Address: Lebuh Keng Kwee, 10200 George Town
Hours: Daily 10:30am to 6:30pm.
Kim Laksa Balik Pulau
Worth the drive out to Balik Pulau, on the island's quieter west side. The eatery is small and dingy with not many tables, but the signature dish earns its reputation. The broth sits somewhere between the aggressive tang of Air Itam and the gentler Penang Road version, with a roasted pork (siew yok) stall nearby that pairs well with the sour soup.
Order the homemade nutmeg juice with ice to cut through the heat. If you visit in the right season, a small durian stall sets up right outside.
Address: Jalan Balik Pulau, 11000 Balik Pulau, Penang
Hours: Daily 11am to 5pm (closed some Wednesdays).
Asam laksa vs curry laksa
The confusion is understandable since both are called laksa, but they could not be more different. Curry laksa uses a coconut milk base, which makes it rich and creamy, while assam laksa uses tamarind (asam means sour in Malay) for a sharp, acidic broth with no coconut at all. Curry laksa tops with prawns, tofu puffs, and bean sprouts. Assam laksa tops with fish, mint, pineapple, and prawn paste. They share a name and nothing else.
For a vegetarian version, head to Luk Yea Yan Vegetarian Restaurant on Jalan Burmah, where mock fish stands in for the mackerel. My Own Cafe on Lebuh Chulia serves a milder, halal version for those who cannot handle the broth at full intensity.
The noodles in a proper assam laksa are thick round rice noodles, slippery and springy, imported directly from Penang even at the Singapore stalls that try to replicate the dish. The broth is the point. Drink it down after you finish the noodles. No one will judge you.
